How to Remove a Mustang T5 Transmission
Posted by: Clemens9
Since lots of people are always asking how to drop a transmission, I took lots of pics last time I did it so I could make a write-up.
First step- Get the car as high off the ground as possible. Make sure you get all 4 wheels off, and leave plenty of room in the front to pull the tranny out of and to sit under comfortably.
Second step- Remove exhaust. Its easiest if you pull the O-2 sensors off first, they sometimes get in the way. Then, make sure you have a can of PB-blaster to remove the rust off the header bolts, they can be a pain in the ass and add hours to the time if you cant get them off. Spray lots on there, and let it sit for about 5 minutes, and then take the nuts off of the header studs. After that, remove the other side of the H or Y pipe from your cat-back system.
Third step- drain the fluid from the transmission. This is important because if you remove the driveshaft with the fluid still in the transmission, the fluid will come out the tailshaft and get everywhere. Use the bottom drain plug in the picture (not the circled bolt, but the red drain plug to the left of it).
edit- Remove the Shifter handle and bezel. You must go in the car, unscrew the shifter top, take the bezel off, and then unbolt the handle from the base of the shifter. When you are done, the base of the shifter should look like this.
Fourth Step- Remove the driveshaft. For some people, this is the hardest part. You need to make sure the rear end is high enough to get a wrench and a breaker bar under there. Put the e-brake on, and then remove each bolt one at a time. When you finish the two bolts you can get off, take the e-brake off, rotate the wheels by hand, and then set tbe brake again and take off the rest of the bolts. You need a 12-pt 12mm wrench I believe (might be 13mm). Some people can get it off with a ratchet head, but i can never fit them in there because of the tight clearenced. You will need some type of breaker bar also because those bolts are on REALLY tight. Make sure you mark the driveshaft alignment. Put a mark where the driveshaft was attached to the rear end so you can put it back in the same place.
Fifth step- Removing the transmission to bellhousing bolts. This is relatively easy. You just have to remove the 4 bolts that keep the tranny attached to the bellhousing. Two of them are the circled bolts in this picture, and the other two are above them. You will need some extensions, and maybe a universal joint to get the top ones off. Once these are off, only the input shaft and the crossmember are holding the transmission in place. Also remember to remove the 2 or 3 electrical connections that are attached to the transmission.
Sixth step- First, place a jack under the transmission, so it doesn't start to fall. Next, start removing the crossmember bolts. These are either 2 or 4 bolts that keep the transmission mounted to the body of the car. Once these are removed, only the input shaft is keeping it in place.
Seventh Step- Removing the transmission. You can either slowly lower the jack while pulling it back out of the bellhousing, or, if you are a bigger guy, lift the tranny up, remove the jack, and pull it out and onto your chest. It weighs about 80-90 lbs, so make sure your ready for it when it drops. Once its out, simply place it on the ground and pull it from under the car.
Eighth Step- Remove the starter. First, unhook the battery, so you don't electrocute yourself. Next remove the starter by taking out the two bolts that attach the starter to the bellhousing. They are located on the other side of this picture, where the circles are. You will need a deep socket or a wrench to get them off. You can leave the starter hanging in place, it just has to be unbolted from the bellhousing.
Ninth Step- Remove the bellhousing. This is straight forward. This is a bad picture, but I don't have anymore of it. Remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork first, and then remove the C-clip that holds the cavle to the bellhousing so you can completely remove it. Then, just remove the 6 or 8 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the block. There might be one or two smaller ones that attach the bellhousing to the thing metal plate, so remove them also.
Tenth Step- Remove the clutch and pressure plate. This is also straight forward. Just remove the 6-8 bolts that hold the pressure plate and clutch disk onto the flywheel. Be ready when you take it off, there are pins holding it in place, but its surprisingly heavy when you pull it off. Make sure you mark where you removed it from on the flywheel for balancing if you are re-using the same clutch and pressure plate.
Last step- Remove the flywheel if necessary. If you are putting in a new clutch, remove the flywheel so you can have it resurfaced. You will notice something when you try to take them off, the engine will turn. You will have to have someone hold the crank bolt so the engine doesn't turn while you remove the bolts. If you don't have another person available, either attach a C-clamp to the flywheel teeth to keep it from moving, or set up something else. This thing is heavy, so watch it when you remove it. The flywheel will only go back on one way, so you don't have to mark it.
This is the pic that has
everything put together. The clutch fork is mounted correctly on
the bellhousing, and the TO bearing is on the fork.
This is the clutch fork separated from the bellhousing. There are two prongs on the fork that hold it onto the ball.
This is the TO bearing mounted correctly on the clutch fork. The input shaft goes though the hole, and the TO bearing sits on the pressure plate. It should sit on those prongs if its on correctly, allowing it to pivot.
This is the back side of the fork, showing the other side of the TO bearing.
If you would like to add this pic, it is a little trick on removing those flywheel bolts. Someone suggested it on this forum, and it worked great for me! Just look for the cheapo wrench. Not the greatest pic, but you get the idea. You just have to switch sides when you have to re-torque the bolts!